Perth’s sandy soils can be a huge challenge for gardeners and lawn lovers. The soils we have are hydrophobic (repel water) and lack a lot of important nutrients our plants and lawns need to thrive. Digging in quality soils, manures or composts are effective ways to help improve soils. However, they are not realistic options for someone who already has established lawns or gardens.

What does it mean to have a healthy soil?

A healthy soil, from a gardener’s perspective, is simply a soil that helps your plants and lawns to grow. To grow healthy plants, your soil needs to perform these two functions:

1. Infiltrate water
2. Supply nutrients

To achieve these goals, we need to have healthy soil bacteria, fungi and microbes and we need to increase soil organic matter.

The long term fix: increase live roots

Many people know that a healthy soil creates healthy roots, but they don’t know that the relationship goes both ways. Healthy roots actually help create a healthy soil.

A green, healthy plant lives by photosynthesis. The products of photosynthesis are oxygen and carbohydrates. Plants will then take 30-50% of the carbohydrates it produces and put them into the soil, which feeds soil organisms. These organisms then in return increase the quality of the soil, both its capacity for water infiltration and the soil’s ability to feed the plants.

The process of increasing roots and encouraging the root-to-soil relationship is slow. However, the results are long lasting and potentially permanent (note: The science behind this explained thoroughly in the book A Soil Owner’s Manual by John Stika).

I am going to show you the four steps, in order of importance, that you need to help improve your soil for WA lawns and gardens.

Note: These four steps are assuming a functioning reticulation system for your lawns and gardens that waters your gardens per the WA Water Corp Guidelines (or equivalent regular hand watering). If you do not have a functioning reticulation system, focus on fixing that first before you follow these four steps.

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The four steps

In order of importance, here are the four steps you need to complete to improve your sandy Perth soil without digging up the soil surface.

1. Keep the soil covered: Mulch and Lawn

Mulch is often used to beautify a garden but is also has significant benefits to the soil and plants of the garden. A healthy mulch layer – I would recommend at least 5cm – will:

• Protect soil from erosion
• Create a habitat for beneficial insects and other organism that help the soil
• Conserve moisture, and
• Reduce soil temperature during hot weather

All of these functions will help improve your soil and your plant’s root growth. I have written a detailed article on the best mulches for WA gardens; you can click here to read it. Find the best mulch for your gardens and apply as your first step.

If you want to improve the soil quality of your lawns, a thick lush lawn will provide the same protection and benefits to soil that a quality mulch will. Use a quality fertiliser to encourage thick, lush growth. Here is a great balanced and slow-release organic fertiliser that can be used on just about every plant.

2. Help water get to and stay in the root zone: Wetting Agents

Wetting agents are still criminally underrated in WA lawn and garden care. In 2016, trials in WA conditions showed that using wetting agents can significantly improve soil moisture by 19.9% five weeks after application. Wetting agent producer SACOA (the makers of BioWett, Ralphy’s Refresh and more) released these figures on their website:

The reality is that it doesn’t matter how much water you put on your lawn or garden. What truly matters is how much of that water actually makes it down to the root zone where it is needed.

There are many WA homeowners who will be shocked to find out just how much of the water they put on their lawns and garden is being lost to evaporation and run-off. Applying a quality wetting agent will temporarily increase the soil’s ability to infiltrate water. However, keeping up regular applications sustains the increase in soil moisture, which will in turn increase the quality of the soil.

To see exactly how a wetting agent works, click here.

3. Increase root growth: Seaweed Concentrates

Seaweed products are super beneficial for root growth and establishment. Check out this video to see the results on cotton after just two weeks.

As we explained above, there is a strong relationship between healthy roots and healthy soil. Use a seaweed product to encourage as much root growth as possible.

4. Add liquid organics: Humic and Fulvic Acids

Humic and fulvic acids are known as “liquid compost”. Whilst there is some debate on the subject, there is scientific and anecdotal evidence that both humic and fulvic acid can increase soil health and root development.

Because there is some debate, I have put this tip as the lowest priority on the list. However, these products are not all that expensive AND can be applied together with seaweed products and wetting agents in a watering can or hose attachment.

Bonus tip: Filling up bare space with annuals

This process does include digging so I consider it a bonus point. The simple idea is that increasing the roots in your soil and the plant diversity in your garden beds will speed up the process of soil improvement.

If you have bare areas in your soil that are too small for a new shrub or tree, a small annual plant may be a really good option to add roots without over-crowding.

Petunias, Lobelias and Violas are all beautiful flowering options. However, these are not the only options. Herbs like basil or parsley could also be a great edible option. Even Dichondra (a perennial ground cover often grown by seed) could be a creative option for shaded areas.

Final tip: Consistency over intensity

The key to these four actions creating long lasting benefits to your soil is consistency. It is often the case that we get excited, spend the money to get the products, apply a couple of times and then the products sit on the shelf unused for years.

I would recommend that mulching be done yearly, applied at least 5cm thick. The best results for your soil will come from mulches with large particle sizes (read our article on mulch to find out why).

The wetting agents, seaweed concentrate and humic/fulvic acids can be applied together if all in liquid form. I would advise low-rate applications of wetting agents and full-rate applications of seaweed concentrate and humic/fulvic acid every four weeks.

These tips are not quick fixes. You will see instant benefits – especially from the mulch and wetting agents – but it may take 1-2 years (or even more depending on how bad your soil is to start with) to see long-lasting results. However, if you are a keen gardener or lawn lover, the value from these actions is huge and far worth the work.

Our Product Recommendations

There are many great products out on the market. We love the Ralphy’s range. High-quality WA produced by a small WA business. Follow these links to see these products and have them delivered to your door. Refresh, Unleash, Seacharge.

For mulch recommendation, read this article of ours. We compare 8 popular mulch options to see which ones are best for your gardens.

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Which Mulch Is Best For Australian Gardens?

ByLuke SmithJun 14, 20228 min read

If you are the type of person who is reading this and realises that whilst you have the desire to improve your soils, you don’t have the time to consistently apply the mulch or products, then we are here to help.

Silverstone Gardening is a professional lawn and garden care business that hires qualified and experienced gardeners who can help you get amazing results at your property. Contact us today for a quote.

The post 4 ‘No Dig’ Ways To Fix Your Sandy Perth Soil: Lawns And Gardens appeared first on Silverstone Gardening.

It’s a common misunderstanding

I have been helping homeowners with their lawns and gardens for over 10 years. When helping clients solve issues in their lawns and garden, I often need to ask “when was the last time you fertilised?”. It is surprising how many people answer something like “I put Seasol down X weeks ago”. Here is the problem, even though sometimes Seasol is advertised as a fertiliser, Seasol is not a fertiliser and we need to stop using it as a replacement for fertilisers.

Don’t get me wrong. Seasol – and other seaweed products – are great for lawns and gardens. But it can’t do the job that fertiliser does. Below, I’ll give you: the reasons why Seasol is not a fertiliser; some good liquid and granule fertilisers to use alongside Seasol; and the real advantages that Seasol truly has.

Seasol has almost no NPK

Your lawns and plants need nutrients to survive. Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) are the main nutrients (macro nutrients) your plant needs. Micro nutrients like Iron (Fe) or Magnesium (Mg) are also needed, but N, P and K are required in the largest quantities.

The role a fertilizer truly plays is to supplement the plant with the nutrients – mainly NPK – that it is not getting from the soil. Seasol has only tiny, almost unnoticeable amounts of the most important nutrients your lawns and plants need to thrive.

Here is a breakdown from Seasol of what is in its product.

For comparison, a general NPK fertiliser analysis would look something like:

• Nitrogen (N) 14% (140x as much as Seasol)
• Phosphorus (P) 2% (200x as much as Seasol)
• Potassium (K) 8% (5.3x as much as Seasol)

The only macro nutrient Seasol has in any serious quantity is Potassium and even then it’s still five times less than a general fertiliser.

If you are looking for high quality nutrition to help supplement what your soil is missing, Seasol is not the answer. So what does Seasol do?

If Seasol isn’t a nutrient supplement, then what does Seasol do?

This list is taken straight from Seasol own website. They advertise that Seasol:

• Stimulates strong root growth and beneficial soil micro-organisms.
• Promotes vigorous flowering and fruiting and overall garden health.
• Helps plants cope with all kinds of stress, such as heat, drought and frost.
• Gives plants better resistance to sucking insects and fungal attack.
• Safe to use on all plants including natives at any time.
• Improves seed germination and reduces transplant shock.
• Helps to increase nutrient uptake, so when fertilisers are applied they are much more effective.

It’s clear that there are benefits to using Seasol. If you are using it on your lawns and gardens, don’t stop using it. However, my advice would be to also use a high quality complete fertiliser alongside it. That way you get the best of both worlds.

What products should I use to fertilise my lawns and gardens?

There are many great products out there and I don’t believe there is a ‘one size fits all’ solution. But if you are looking for some great products that can work alongside Seasol, here are four great, general-use options.

High quality granule garden fertiliser

Troforte M General Purpose

This is a great garden all-rounder that last six months in the soil. It is designed for all your gardens needs with up to 60 minerals and 24 species of beneficial microbes, bacteria and fungi.

Troforte M General Purpose is suitable for potted and in-ground trees, shrubs, flowering plants and all Australian natives.

High quality liquid garden fertiliser

PowerFeed PRO SERIES Plant Food All Purpose

This product is made by the same company that make Seasol. However, you will notice the difference in the nutrition analysis: Nitrogen (N) 12.0%. Phosphorus (P) 1.3%. Potassium (K) 7.0%. This product has the nutrition your plants need.

Liquid fertilisers are great at giving plants a quick boost and are also really effective with indoor plants and flowering annuals. If that is what you are looking for, then PowerFeed PRO SERIES All Purpose is a great option for you.

High Quality Granule Lawn Fertiliser

Eco-Prime Emerald

Eco-Prime Emerald is a complete rock mineral NPK fertiliser impregnated with beneficial microbes. It’s designed to enhance lawn surfaces by providing balanced nutrition and strong root growth.

Emerald is a very good growing season fertiliser that many people have used with exceptional results.

High quality liquid lawn fertiliser

Baileys Turfect Green Plus

Green Plus is a high quality, commercial grade liquid fertiliser designed to produce deep green colour and vigorous turf growth.

It can be applied throughout the year, particularly in cooler months to maintain colour and health, providing a readily available source of essential turf nutrients to rapidly address deficiency.

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If you reading this and everything seems too difficult and complicated, we are here to help. Silverstone Gardening hires qualified and experienced gardeners who can identify and solve your lawn and garden problems for you. If you would like a professional gardener to look after your lawns and gardens, contact us today for a quote.

The post Seasol is not a fertiliser; it serves a different purpose appeared first on Silverstone Gardening.

Monstera are a beautiful plant. Having rich, dark, uniquely shaped leaves and a tolerance for shaded positions has made Monsteras a very popular plant for indoor growth. It is also common that over time these beautiful leaves can become damaged. Once damaged, can your Monstera leaves be fixed? Unfortunately, the short answer is no.

What should you do with damaged leaves?

Well, it depends on how much damage there is. A small cut can be left as-is with no harm to the plant. Larger damage or unsightly leaves will need to be pruned. Pruning the damaged leaves and applying fertiliser will help the Monstera grow new, healthy leaves.

How should I prune damaged leaves?

Simply get a sharp pair of secateurs and cut at the node, not at the leaf. (If you are looking for some high-quality secateurs, here are two great options depending on your budget: option 1 and option 2.)

After pruning back apply a liquid fertiliser like Thrive Indoor Plant Food to help your Monstera grow new leaves.

What should I do if most of my Monstera’s leaves are damaged?

If the majority of your Monstera’s leaves are damaged, it may be best to prune the Monstera back in stages. Start with the worst effected, removing the worst 2-3 leaves. Once new leaves are showing cut the next 2-3 leaves off.

However, the real question to ask if why are so many leaves damaged in the first place? Perhaps changes need to be made to stop more damage occurring.

How to prevent damage to Monstera leaves

1. Remove from walkways and traffic areas
   Monstera leaves are quite fragile. Brushing past whilst walking through a tight area, or stepping on leaves can cause damage. Move your plant to a more open area where this is less likely to occur.
2. Remove from windy areas
   Monsteras do not like the wind. Keep them in a protected area to prevent future damage.
3. Avoid direct air conditioner air
   Monsteras do not like dry air or extreme fluctuations in temperature. Direct air from an air conditioner can cause damage to the leaves. It’s best to move your Monstera to a more protected area.

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If you would love some help with your lawns and gardens, contact Silverstone Gardening for a quote today. We have qualified and experienced gardeners who are able to help make your lawns and gardens look amazing.

The post Can damaged Monstera leaves be fixed? appeared first on Silverstone Gardening.

If you have black spots on your kangaroo paw, unfortunately it is likely to be a fungal disease commonly know as ink spot.

The black spots are caused by a fungus called Alternaria alternata. The disease starts on the tips of the kangaroo paw leaves and moves down to the stems. This ugly disease can be deadly for weak or juvenile kangaroo paws so it needs to be taken seriously. (Here is an organic fungicide that will help with Powdery Mildew and Black Spots.)

How to treat Kangaroo Paw Ink Spot

The first thing to do when treating ink spot is to cut off any growth that is showing signs of the disease, even if this means cutting the whole plant down to 4-5cm from the base. Whilst this may seem like it could hurt the plant, in the long run it will be much more beneficial.

After pruning, apply a complete, high quality fertiliser. Neutrog Bush Tucker is good option. It is high in phosphorus which will help the Kangaroo Paw grow back more resistant to future disease.

In some cases, a fungicide may be needed to help treat the disease and prevent it from reoccurring. If this is the case, a simple Mancozeb treatment (product here) or a copper-based fungicide (product here) should be effective treatments. Apply thoroughly to all remaining foliage as per label directions.

How to stop Kangaroo Paw black spots from reoccurring

There are three things you can do to prevent this disease in the future:

1. Avoid leaf moisture
   The longer the leaves are wet, the more likely a disease is to occur. Whilst we can’t do anything about natural rain, we can do something about our reticulation. Firstly, avoid watering your garden early in the night and instead water in the morning to reduce the time it takes for the leaf to dry. Secondly, consider changing your sprinklers from a spraying sprinkler that waters the leaf, to a dripping sprinkler that waters the soil. Thirdly, avoid over watering in general.
2. Prune back twice a year
   This will help keep the kangaroo paw healthy. Prune after flowers have finished. October/November and January/February are usually good times to prune your Kangaroo Paws.
3. Regular fertilising
   Neutrog Bush Tucker and Troforte M Native are both great products. Apply as per the label to have a stronger healthier plant (not to mention increased flowering and greener foliage).

I hope this has helped you understand and solve a common problem in WA gardens.

If all of this seems like too much effort, or you simply just want a professional to take care of your lawns and gardens for you, then Silverstone Gardening is here to help. We hire experienced and qualified gardeners who can identify and solve your lawn and garden issues so that you don’t have to worry about a thing.

Contact Silverstone Gardening today for a quote.

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The post Why is my Kangaroo Paw turning black? How do I fix it? appeared first on Silverstone Gardening.

How we rank these mulches

There are actually real world, practical differences in the common mulch varieties used in Australia gardens. In this article, I am going to rank eight popular mulch options, using four different categories.

1. Longevity: How long does the mulch hold its colour and appearance compared to other mulches?
2. Soil Moisture Retention: How well does the mulch help the soil retain water? The larger the particles/chips in the mulch, the better it is at retaining moisture (read here for more). For example, large particles like wood chips allow water to flow through freely to the soil, whereas smaller particles like grass clippings can absorb a lot of the water before it gets to the soil.
3. Soil Improvement: How much does this mulch help improve soil quality over time? All mulches are beneficial for the soil but some have increased beneficial effects.
4. Price Guide: How expensive is the mulch? This is a guide only as prices can fluctuate. Call your local supplier for a proper quote.

Please note: These rating are our opinions based on our experience having completed gardening services at thousands of locations throughout the suburbs of Perth, Western Australia. In addition, different mulch suppliers may have different levels of quality when comparing equivalent products, so take these ratings as a general guide.

Our Rankings In A Nutshell

Karri And Peat

Longevity: 8-9/10
Soil Moisture Retention: 3-5/10
Soil Improvement: 6-7/10
Price Guide: $110-$140 per M3

Made with Karri (and sometimes Jarrah) bark mixed with peat, Karri and Peat is the king of black mulches. It is the longest lasting black mulch and the extra peat can help improve soil quality.

However, this mulch has smaller particles which do have a negative effect on soil moisture retention. If your number one goal is to help your garden become water wise, Karri and Peat is not the mulch for you.

But, if your goal is a rich, dark, long lasting colour, then this is what you are looking for.

Budget Black Mulch

Longevity: 5-7/10
Soil Moisture Retention: 3-5/10
Soil Improvement: 5/10
Price Guide: $50-70 per M3

Black mulch does vary between suppliers (which is why our ratings vary) but it is often a budget mulch, dyed black with a small amount of peat. When it is freshly installed, it looks just as good as Karri and Peat, however, that look does not last anywhere near as long.

There can be a lot of fine particles in these mulches which makes them poor at moisture retention. Overall, our opinion is that this is not a good value for money option. If a black mulch is what you are looking for, in our experience, Karri and Peat is a better value for money option.

Pine Bark Mulch

Longevity: 7-9/10
Soil Moisture Retention: 8/10
Soil Improvement: 5/10
Price Guide: $130-$160 per M3

In my opinion, pine bark mulch is the best wood chip style mulch. Like other wood chip mulches, it has a large particle size which is great for moisture retention. In addition, it holds its colour better than any other mulch.

Whilst the price at face value seems expensive, it is actually very good value for money when you consider longevity. This is a great mulch for those who are looking for long term results and real moisture retention.

Wood Chip Mulch

Longevity: 5-6/10
Soil Moisture Retention: 8/10
Soil Improving: 5/10
Price Guide: $90-$110 per M3

Wood chip mulches, are great at retaining moisture because of their large particle size. It holds colour longer than the cheap mulches but are still at a fairly affordable price. But, in the the hot Australian summers, the wood chip style mulches can turn grey quite quickly.

This is a great middle of the road option.

Red Wood Chips

Longevity: 7-9/10
Soil Moisture Retention: 6-8/10
Soil Improvement: 5/10
Price Guide: $110-$135 per m3

Red wood chip mulches are essentially the same as standard wood chips mulches that have been dyed to give a vibrant red colour. The quality of mulch used does vary between suppliers. If a wood chip mulch had been used, there will be no noticeable difference in moisture retention and soil improvement compared to other wood chip options.

The problem is that when this colour fades, the mulch can look unappealing. In addition, it is quite a bit more expensive than standard wood chips. If you love the red colour then this is not a bad mulch to buy. However, be prepared for the extra cost and to lose the colour fairly quickly.

Economy Mulch

Longevity: 4-6/10
Soil Moisture Retention: 5-7/10
Soil Improvement: 4/10
Price Guide: $63 per M3

Economy mulch (will have different names for different suppliers) is often the cheapest mulch option at the local soil supplier. It is made as a byproduct of gardening and tree lopping waste that is left to age; this gives the mulch a nice dark colour.

Whilst economical and nice to look at, the fine particles in the mulch make it less effective at retaining moisture when compared to wood chip mulches. However, there can be a significant difference between suppliers and some batches/supplies do have a nice large particle size.

The longevity of colour is not great, but better than free mulch. All things considered, we do recommend these mulches as a good option for those on a budget.

Straw Mulches

Longevity: 3/10
Soil Moisture Retention: 10/10
Soil Improvement: 9/10
Price Guide: $240-$350 per M3 (Lupin Mulch bulk bag, prices will vary depending on size of bag)

Straw mulches like hay or lupin mulch are very high in nitrogen and are some of the best mulches for water retention. This is partly due to them having no small particles and partly because straw mulch is often applied at thicker rates (10-20cm) to other mulches (5-10cm).

The down sides to straw mulches is that they are the most expensive mulches on this list. In addition, they break down quickly, which is great for adding nitrogen to the soil, but the rate of replacement plus the expensive outlay makes this an unrealistic option for large gardens. They also may contain seeds from the plant the mulch is made from.

Straw mulches are best when applied in veggie patches and other small garden beds. On a larger scale, it is not a practical option.

Free Mulch (Tree Loppers Mulch)

Longevity: 3-5/10
Soil Moisture Retention: 5/10
Soil Improvement: 3-5/10
Price Guide: Free

Free wood mulches from tree lopping businesses are a great option if you are looking to do a large area on a budget but they do come with some issues.

1. It is very common to get much more mulch than you need. Your delivery is simply a truck of waste from tree looping jobs. You can rarely ask for an exact amount.
2. The quality of the mulch is very low, often filled with small sticks and leaves which can be unsightly.
3. The mulch is very fresh, so has a lighter colour than other wood chip mulches.
4. It goes grey very quickly in the Perth sun.
5. Whilst unlikely, there is a chance that free mulch may contain diseased trees and branches. This disease may spread to your plants if they are susceptible.

Whilst free mulch is very attractive to some on a budget, each person will need to know what they are signing up for before they make an order. I only recommend this mulch for very large areas where the budget is very tight.

Please note: Silverstone Gardening does not supply or lay free wood mulches to clients as we cannot guarantee the quality of the mulch or the results of our service. Our focus is to give our clients the highest quality service possible.

So, which mulch is best for Australian gardens? It depends on what you are looking for.

So, which mulch is best for WA gardens? Well, I can’t answer that for everyone, but I hope you now have the knowledge that you need to make the right decision for your garden.

If you still have any questions about mulches, or perhaps are wanting to find out about a style of mulch not listed here, then talk to your local soil and mulch supplier. There are plenty of knowledgeable and friendly mulch suppliers who will be able to help with your requests.

If you are looking for a service that can organise and complete your mulching job from start to finish, contact Silverstone Gardening today. We have qualified and experienced gardeners who can help identify and solve problems in your lawns and gardens. Mulch installation is just one of our services.

Contact our friendly admin team for a quote.

The post Which Mulch Is Best For Australian Gardens? appeared first on Silverstone Gardening.

Yellow citrus leaves are a common problem in WA. There are a few reasons why citrus leaves will turn yellow. Cold temperatures, over-watering and under-watering are all causes of yellow leaves. However, in Perth conditions we rarely get cold enough weather to cause yellowing and watering is seldom the issue.

After 10 years of gardening throughout Perth, I have found that the most common reason for yellowing leaves in citrus trees is a lack of nutrients. Happily, the good news is that it is also one of the easiest problems to fix.

The quick fix

The quick and easy fix will be to simply apply a fertiliser that contains the nutrient that your citrus tree is lacking. For most people, this will be as easy as going down to the local Bunnings or nursery and buying a citrus specific fertiliser and applying as directed.

Our recommendations

Richgro Black Marvel Premium & Citrus Fruit

This is a great option to quickly fix citrus nutrient deficiency. This citrus fertiliser is fast acting and lasts about 8 weeks. If applied correctly, most gardeners will see their yellow citrus leaves green and healthy again in a few weeks.

Follow the recommended application rates. Water in thoroughly. To prevent nutrient deficiency from recurring, reapply the fertiliser every 8 weeks.

Scotts Osmocote Citrus & Fruit Fertiliser

For most people, reapplying a citrus fertiliser ever 8 weeks is something they are likely to forget. For others, it may just seem like too much work. This Scotts citrus fertiliser has a special coating that causes the fertiliser to slowly release it nutrients over a 6 month period.

These coated fertilisers can be much more expensive per kg but are actually very good value for money when considering the results they produce.

Because of the slow-release nature of this fertiliser, it is not as good an option if a quick remedy is needed. However, these fertilisers do a great job of preventing the issue from coming back.

Troforte M Fruit and Citrus

This product is another slow-release fertiliser lasting 6 months per application. However, in addition to having the nutrients your citrus tree needs, this Troforte fertiliser contains 24 species of beneficial microbes, bacteria and fungi. These beneficial microbes bacteria and fungi are specifically chosen to enhance fruit taste and produce better yields.

This product is available at most garden nurseries and is a great option for the serious gardener.

Which nutrient is my citrus tree lacking?

This photo below from ipipotash.org is really helpful in seeing the different nutrients that could be lacking in your citrus tree. One omission is that of nitrogen. If your citrus leaf is evenly pale and yellow all over, then it is likely lacking in nitrogen.

If you would like a professional gardener to look after your lawns and gardens, contact us today for a quote. We hire qualified and experienced gardeners who can identify and solve your lawn and garden problems for you.

Chris

Wandi

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The post The most common reason Perth Citrus leaves go yellow appeared first on Silverstone Gardening.

There is something awesome about hedges and the training and shaping of nature into something that would never naturally occur. They are beautiful as boarders or natural walls.

If you are new to hedging and want to learn from an experienced gardener, we made this video for you:

Two more hedging tips:

1. Always remember to keep your hedges sharp and clean. This will prevent spreading of disease or contaminants.
2. The more frequently you cut the hedge, the tighter and more densely it will grow.

If all of this seems like too much effort for you, then don’t worry, we are here to help. Contact us today to get an experienced gardener to your property to maintain your hedges, lawns and gardens.

Click here to read about what our client’s think of their Silverstone Gardening service!

The post How to cut straight hedges appeared first on Silverstone Gardening.

After more than 10 years of gardening, helping thousands of clients across Perth’s suburbs there have been several common mistakes that home owners and hobby gardeners make. Too many people under appreciate is the importance of fertiliser.

I am here to try and start a conversation about fertiliser and I hope that this simple blog will help you take your lawns and gardens to the next level. I don’t want this to be too complicated, we will keep things fairly basic. May this be the start of your lawn and garden improvement journey.

The basics

I believe that lawns and plants need 4 things to thrive,

1. Water
2. Light
3. Nutrients and
4. Protection from damage (bugs, disease, weeds, traffic etc.)

I think of these four points like four legs of a table. You can’t cut a leg off a table without it becoming shaky, unstable or even outright falling over. Likewise, you need all four of the above points for your plants and lawns to be beautiful and healthy, only having 3 is not enough.

So, to put it practically a lawn that receives plenty of water, enough light and is not being damaged by pests or diseases will still struggle if it is planted in poor quality soil lacking in nutrients.

The truth: Most WA soils have little to no nutrients.

It’s true. This is because Western Australian soil is, for the most part, sand. There are some areas, rare spots indeed, where this is not the case. But these spots are few and far between. The sandy soils in WA are very hydrophobic and are almost completely lacking in any of the core nutrients needed for most plants and almost all lawn varieties to survive without some supplementation.

The reason why fertilising is crucial is because fertilisers contain the nutrients that our lawns and plants need to thrive. This means that for most plants and lawns that we place in our gardens if we do not replace the soil they are in or supplement with fertiliser they will be completely missing one off the four legs they need to stand on.

More water is not the answer

An honest but common mistake that I see with those new to gardening is that when a plant starts to go yellow, they add more water. It is a very deceptive problem and maybe you have done this too.

It is deceptive because it is sometimes the case that a yellow leaf will indicate insufficient water (usually though this will be accompanied by wilting or drooping leaves). However, it is far more common that a yellow leaf (Chlorosis is the technical term) is actually being caused by a lack of nutrients. Minerals like Nitrogen, Iron, Magnesium, Manganese and others are essential for plants. Without them the plant cannot photosynthesize. When the plant starts to yellow it may be crying out for a good feed not a good drink and in some cases adding more water will actually do more harm than good.

If you need help with how to set your reticulation click here.

Take Action: Which fertiliser is best?

So now we know that fertilisers are needed, they give the nutrients our plants and lawns are lacking . The obvious question remains. Which fertiliser should you use?

Whilst there is a lot to learn about fertilisers here are 3 fool proof tips that will help even a complete novice to get great results.

3 Basic tips for picking fertiliser.

1. Don’t get so caught up in brand names or prices that you never take action. A general, cheap NPK fertiliser applied as recommended on the packet will do a great amount of good for most plants struggling for nutrients. Whilst there are differences in brands and some fertilisers are better than others, a good or even average fertiliser applied today is better than a perfect fertiliser that is never applied.
   
   However, if you are looking for some recommendations for great WA lawn fertilisers read our article here.
2. Follow the label. Many brands have specific fertiliser mixes for specific types of plants and they advertise these on their packaging. There are fertiliser mixes for lawns, citrus, roses, vegies, fruit and more. These are not gimmicks, the fertiliser have been mixed with these plants in mind. Some will be better than others, but a cheap citrus blend applied as recommended to a citrus tree will do a great job.
3. Don’t go crazy. Maybe your lawn is yellow and you are now super excited, having discovered the power of fertiliser, to make it green again. I have been there before. The temptation in this situation is to over apply, double the recommended dosage hoping that your lawn improvements will be twice as good in half the time. Unfortunately, it is not always that simple. Too much fertiliser can burn the lawns or plants you are caring for or even cause other issues. In addition if you over apply you may simply find that most of it just gets washed away.
   
   Remember that the fertiliser manufacturer wants you to succeed when you use their fertiliser. This way you will buy more of their fertiliser in the future. Trust their recommendations, they have done the tests for you and know the best ratios to apply for each circumstance to get great results.

Conclusion

Now you know the basics. Go and make your lawns and gardens thrive!! Also take some before any after pictures, it can be really rewarding.

If all this seems a bit to complicated or to time consuming for your busy schedule fill out a quote request and one of our gardeners will be able to come and help you achieve your goals for your lawns and gardens.

Have a great week.

The post Don’t underestimate the power of fertiliser for WA lawns and gardens appeared first on Silverstone Gardening.

In the lead up to writing this article I came to realise that the plant that I am about to write about is without a doubt one of the most underrated plants in Australian gardens. The Wattle is in a league of its own as a plant that is:

• Bird attracting
• Fast growing
• Has beautiful flowers
• Is water wise
• Comes in many shapes and sizes
• Is tolerant of most conditions
• Takes little maintenance
• Has its own national day
• Is the basis of an entire countries sporting colours (green and gold)
• And is the national floral emblem of Australia.

Talk about an impressive resume. So if you are thinking about planting a Wattle in your garden this National Wattle day (September 1^st) then here is what you need to know about one of the world most amazing and underrated plants.

The Basics

The genus Acacia is part of the Mimosaceae family which has almost 1000 species in Australia alone. These species can vary dramatically from the dwarf varieties to 15-meter-high trees.

Wattles are fast growers and the yellow flowers come in either tiny tennis ball-like pompoms or arranged in cylindrical spikes. Three popular varieties are the dwarf Acacia “limelight”, Acacia Vestita and Acacia Pycnantha which is the Australian floral emblem.

What to do before planting

Wattles are fast growers and most are around 2-3 meters high so you need to take that into consideration before driving down to your local nursery. Once you have bought your plant position it in a spot that has plenty of sunlight, a well drained soil and plenty of room to grow. Wattles will not need a lot of encouragement to grow so fertiliser isn’t necessary but a nice deep hole with some compost of manure at the bottom of is certainly won’t hurt.

What to do after planting

Wattles will need watering until they are established but after that natural rainfall will most likely be enough. Pruning helps keep wattles bushy and prolongs their life but stay away from pruning anything thicker then the size of a pencil. A light prune after flowering should do the trick, if you are experiencing die back then raise the crown by removing the bottom branches to let some light into the base.

The easy way to grow from seeds!

Wattles are relatively easy to grow from seeds, which is great considering that some wattles only have a life expectancy of around 7-12 years. To propagate from seed

1. Place seeds in a cup of boiling water and let them sit for 30 seconds
2. Pour out the hot water and place the seeds in cold water for 12 hours. This will allow the seeds to swell over that time.
3. After 12 hour simply remove any seeds that have not swollen and immediately plant the remaining seeds into a pot or punnet containing seed raising soil.
4. Keep in a warm sunny spot and water enough to keep the soil damp. That’s it!

Which variety of wattle should I choose?

So, if you are considering a wattle there is only one questions left. Which variety of wattle should I choose?

Each house and setting is different. So I think the best solution will be to take some photos of the area you want to plant your wattle in, head down to your local nursery and ask the nursery expert what variety would best suit your needs.

But here are three popular varieties to give you some ideas

Acacia cognata Limelight

Beautiful flowing foliage. A great plant for modern gardens. Grows 1m wide and 0.5-1m high. Loves full sun to part shade.

Acacia lasiocarpa prostrate

Called the “glow wattle” because of the masses of golden fluffy flowers. Grows 1m wide and around 1.5m high. Loves full sun to part shade.

Acacia drummondii

A large, beautiful shrub with stunning flowers. Grows 2m high and 2m wide. Loves full sun to part shade.

If reading this has got you excited about wattles but you want a professional to help you with your wattles (or anything else in your lawns and gardens) contact Silverstone Gardening today. We have experienced and qualified gardeners who will be able to help you.

Here’s more information about Wattles!

The post What you need to know about Wattles appeared first on Silverstone Gardening.